رهپویه هنرهای صناعی

رهپویه هنرهای صناعی

تحلیل تاثیرات پوشاک عهد قاجار بر زیورآلات این دوره

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسنده
مدرس گروه صنایع دستی، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه سوره، تهران، ایران
چکیده
در پژوهش حاضر، تغییرات پوشاک ایرانیان در عصر قاجار و تأثیرات آن بر زیورآلات مصرفی وابسته، به شکل موردی مورد مطالعه قرار گرفته است. دلایل و روند تغییرات پوشاک و زیورآلات، ضرورت درک چرایی این تغییرات را موجب می‌شود؛ دو مقوله‌ای که تأثیراتشان بر یکدیگر ریشه‌های تاریخی داشته است. ضمن اینکه ویژگی‌های تغییر و تحوّل در کاربرد زیورآلاتِ وابسته به پوشاک، می‌تواند به عنوان هدف در این پژوهش مورد توجه باشد. روش تحقیق در مقاله حاضر توصیفی و مروری بوده و روش گردآوری اطلاعات به شیوه‌ کتابخانه-ای و با رجوع به اسناد تصویری است. بررسی تغییرات پوشش در این دوره، مشخص کرد که جامعه ما از دوره قاجار به بعد تحت تأثیر جوامع غربی، دچار نوعی سردرگمی در نوع پوشش و استفاده از زیورآلات شده است، در ادامه این سردرگمی، در طی این سال‌ها با تأثیر سیاست و تحولات اجتماعی و تکیه بر تجدد و سنت‌گرایی، تغییرات زیادی در پوشش به وجود آورد که باعث حذف برخی مؤلفه‌های تزئینی و تولید و قوت گرفتن مؤلفه‌های دیگر شد. احتمالاً به دلیل ساده‌تر شدن پوشاک، زیورآلات نیز ساده‌تر شد و ضمن حذف بعضی زیورآلات سنتی، زیورآلات جدیدی مناسب با لباس‌های روز رواج یافت؛ در مجموع چه برای آقایان و چه برای بانوان، نمی‌توان گفت میزان استفاده از زیورآلات کاهش پیدا کرد و یا بیشتر شد؛ امّا می‌توان دریافت که در برخی از زمینه‌ها کمی از زرق و برق بیش از حدّ آن کاسته و ساده‌تر شد. همچنین در برخی حوزه‌ها هم این زینت‌آلات از شکلی به شکل دیگر درآمد.
کلیدواژه‌ها

عنوان مقاله English

The effect of changes in Qajar clothing on decorations and ornaments

نویسنده English

Sara Kargari
instructor of handicraft department, faculty of art. Soore university. Tehran. Iran
چکیده English

In the current research, the changes in Iranian clothing in the Qajar era and its effects on related consumer jewelry have been studied in a case-by-case manner. The reasons and trends of changes in clothing and ornaments require the need to understand why, two categories whose effects on each other have historical roots, while the characteristics of change and transformation in the use of ornaments can be considered as the goal of this research. The research method in this article is descriptive and review, and the method of collecting information is library method and referring to visual documents. Examining the changes in clothing in this period revealed that our society from the Qajar period onwards, under the influence of Western societies, suffered a kind of confusion in the type of clothing and the use of ornaments. Modernity and traditionalism caused many changes in the covering, which caused the removal of some decorative components and the production and strengthening of other components. Probably due to the simpler clothes, the ornaments also became simpler and while some traditional ornaments were removed, new ornaments suitable for the clothes of the day became popular; In general, whether for men or women, it cannot be said that the amount of jewelry use has decreased or increased; But it can be seen that in some areas, a little bit of its excessive glamor has been reduced and it has become simpler. Also, in some areas, these ornaments changed from one form to another. According to the paintings and pictures left from this period, we can clearly see that with the change of clothing for men and the outerwear becoming coats similar to today's coats, ornaments such as buckles at the waist with many inlays, armbands, as well as armbands, except for official ceremonies where the Shah The traditional clothing of Burton became obsolete; And also, in the transition from the first period of the Qajar kingdom to the second period, the use of crowns such as the pale Kiani crown and the use of all kinds of collars on the half-round Qajar hats (made of lambskin) were common. became; The headscarf was used more, and the use of medallions, pocket watches, and decorative buttons for officials, and pocket watches and decorative buttons were considered ornaments for ordinary men. In the case of women, with the transition from the first to the second Qajar period and modernism in the type of women's clothing, the veil became obsolete and the veil became fashionable (except for older women, no one used a veil) and as a result, the use of the veil pin became less and later obsolete. In the second period, when it became common in the interior of Charqad, these pins were also moved under the throat and the use of collars was reduced, unlike men's, and instead To decorate the head and face, they used to hang a jewel under the throat, with which they tied the charqad tightly to the size of the face; this even though the chariots covered the front of the chest; It did not reduce the use of necklaces for court women; As it can be seen in the images left from this period, women put the handles of their charqad on their shoulders from both sides to identify their necklaces and show them fully. in fact, in this period, according to the table of findings of this article, the changes in the field of clothing only led to a decrease or increase in the use of ornaments related to the changed clothing. Qajar kingdom to the second period, the use of crowns such as the pale Kiani crown and the use of all kinds of collars on the half-round Qajar hats (made of lambskin) were common. became; The headscarf was used more, and the use of medallions, pocket watches, and decorative buttons for officials, and pocket watches and decorative buttons were considered ornaments for ordinary men. In the case of women, with the transition from the first to the second Qajar period and modernism in the type of women's clothing, the veil became obsolete and the veil became fashionable (except for older women, no one used a veil) and as a result, the use of the veil pin became less and later obsolete. In the second period, when it became common in the interior of Charqad, these pins were also moved under the throat and the use of collars was reduced, unlike men's, and instead To decorate the head and face, they used to hang a jewel under the throat, with which they tied the charqad tightly to the size of the face; this even though the chariots covered the front of the chest; It did not reduce the use of necklaces for court women; As it can be seen in the images left from this period, women put the handles of their charqad on their shoulders from both sides to identify their necklaces and show them fully. in fact, in this period, according to the table of findings of this article, the changes in the field of clothing only led to a decrease or increase in the use of ornaments related to the changed clothing.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

Qajar period
clothes
ornaments
change of clothes
change of ornaments

مقالات آماده انتشار، پذیرفته شده
انتشار آنلاین از 25 شهریور 1405