رهپویه هنرهای صناعی

رهپویه هنرهای صناعی

نقشمایه بال شاهین در سوزن‌دوزی ایل سنگسر: بازخوانی مضامین اعتقادی و لایه‌های معناییِ پانوفسکی

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسندگان
1 استادیار پژوهشکده هنرهای سنتی، پژوهشگاه میراث فرهنگی و گردشگری، تهران، ایران.
2 دانشجوی کارشناسی ارشد، رشته طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشگاه پارس، تهران-ایران
چکیده
هنر شمارهدوزی از انواع سوزندوزی به شمار آمده و در ایل سنگسر برای تزئین لباسهای سنتی، مکنه، سراگیره، روبالشی، رومیزی و... اغلب منسوجات جهاز عروس انجام میشود. بسیاری از نقوشِ این هنر که اغلب برگرفته از آیینها و باورهای سنتی میباشند، دیرزمانی است که از منظر فرم و معنی رو به فراموشی گذاشتهاند. با توجه به اینکه پژوهشهای معاصر در خصوص معنی این نقشمایههای کهن میتواند به عمر آنها افزوده و به رونقشان کمک نماید، پژوهش حاضر در پی آن است تا نقش بال شاهین در سوزندوزی ایل سنگسر را مورد تجزیهوتحلیل آیکونولوژیک قرار دهد. بدینترتیب سؤال اصلی عبارت است از: در پس نقش بال شاهین در سوزندوزی ایل سنگسر چه مضامین کلامی و روایی وجود دارد و چگونه میتوان آنها را بر بستر باورهای اعتقادی مردمان سنگسر معنی کرد؟ همراهی این موتیف با موتیفهای دیگر در پی القای چه مفاهیمی است؟ تحقیق بنیادی حاضر به منظور نیل به این هدف، از روش تحلیل لایههای معنایی پانوفسکی بهره برده، به گردآوری دادهها از طریق شیوه کتابخانهای پرداخته و سپس به کمک روش توصیفی-تحلیلی اجزای تشکیلدهنده موتیف بال شاهین را مورد تحلیل قرار داده است. بنا بر نتیجه، این نقشمایه در لایه اول معنایی پانوفسکی یا شناخت ابتدایی و توصیفی، به صورت ترکیبی از فرمهای هندسی و ارگانیک با رنگهای درخشان شناسایی میشود و یادآور نقشی گیاهی شامل یک گل مرکزی با برگهایی کناری است؛ در لایه دوم معنایی پانوفسکی/ شناخت قراردادی و روایی، این نقش یادآور بال شاهین/فروهر/ خورشید بالدار؛ و در لایه سوم معنایی یا تفسیر ژرف معنایی و فلسفی، به عنوان نقشی که ریشه در باورهای دینی مردمان سنگسر دارد، نهایتاً برای کسی که آن را به همراهش داشته باشد، مفهوم جاودانگی و محافظت از نیروی شر را دارد.
کلیدواژه‌ها

عنوان مقاله English

The Falcon Wing Motif in the Needlework of the Sangsar Tribe: Rereading Panofsky’s Belief Themes and Semantic Layers

نویسندگان English

Pinky Chadha 1
Mahsa Salamat Manesh 2
1 Assistant Professor, Research Institute of Traditional Arts, Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism,Tehran-Iran
2 M.A. student, textile and clothing design Department., Pars University, Tehran-Iran
چکیده English

Cross-stitch, a well-established form of needlework, holds significant cultural value within the Sangsari tribe, a community renowned for its rich tradition of decorative textile arts. The practice of cross-stitching, primarily undertaken by women, serves as a means of embellishing various everyday items such as local garments, pillowcases, tablecloths, and other household textiles. These items not only function as utilitarian objects but also carry deep cultural and symbolic meanings, reflecting the tribe’s beliefs, rituals, and worldview. Among the myriad motifs employed in the Sangsari needlework, one particularly noteworthy design is the eagle wing motif, which is commonly used in these decorative textiles. This motif, like many others in Sangsari craftsmanship, draws heavily from the tribe’s traditional rituals and beliefs. However, its symbolic meaning has largely faded into obscurity over time, with little contemporary research dedicated to understanding its more profound significance.
The symbolic nature of many of these motifs, which have often been forgotten or overlooked, is a vital aspect of the Sangsari needlework tradition. There is a growing recognition that contemporary studies focused on uncovering the meanings behind these ancient symbols can serve to revive and preserve the cultural significance of these designs, ensuring that they continue to hold value in modern times. The present study aims to address this gap in the literature by focusing specifically on the eagle wing motif, a widely used and important symbol in Sangsari needlework. This motif, despite its frequent use, has not been thoroughly examined in terms of its underlying meanings, particularly from the perspective of its symbolic and narrative roles within the tribe’s cultural context.
The primary research question guiding this study is: Are there any verbal and narrative themes behind the eagle wing motif in the needlework of the Sangsari tribe? Furthermore, this research seeks to explore what concepts are instilled by the association of the eagle wing motif with other motifs in Sangsari needlework. To achieve these objectives, the study employs a fundamental research approach, utilizing a combination of library-based research and descriptive-analytical methods to collect and analyze data. Through this methodology, the research seeks to uncover both the individual and interconnected meanings of the eagle wing motif and to position it within the broader framework of Sangsari cultural symbols and narratives.
The eagle, as a symbol, carries profound significance across many cultures, often representing strength, freedom, and transcendence. In the case of the Sangsari tribe, the eagle wing motif is imbued with additional layers of meaning. This study argues that the eagle wing in Sangsari needlework serves primarily as a symbol of continuity and immortality, a visual representation of the tribe’s worldview regarding life and death. Specifically, the motif is interpreted as a symbol of the unbroken cycle of life, reflecting the belief in the eternal flow of existence across both the physical and spiritual realms. In this sense, the eagle wing motif encapsulates the idea of an ongoing, cyclical existence that transcends individual lifetimes, signifying both the continuity of life in the material world and the persistence of the spirit in the afterlife.
Moreover, the eagle wing motif is frequently paired with other symbolic elements within the context of Sangsari needlework. The relationships between these motifs create a complex web of interconnected ideas and beliefs. For instance, when the eagle wing motif is combined with other symbols such as geometric patterns, flora, or celestial representations, it enhances its association with themes of cosmic order, fertility, and divine protection. Each motif in these textiles contributes to the overall narrative that the Sangsari people communicate through their needlework, conveying messages about the harmony of nature, the interdependence of all living beings, and the sacredness of the cycles of life and death.
This research contributes to the broader field of anthropology and cultural studies by providing a detailed analysis of the symbolic role of a specific motif within the artistic practices of the Sangsari tribe. It sheds light on the complex relationship between art, belief, and identity within indigenous cultures, demonstrating how seemingly simple decorative elements can encapsulate profound cultural values and cosmological understandings. By focusing on the eagle wing motif, this study not only explores the aesthetic aspects of Sangsari needlework but also delves into the deeper cultural and spiritual dimensions that inform these artistic expressions. In doing so, it offers valuable insights into how symbolism is embedded in material culture, and how such symbols evolve and adapt over time, particularly when they are disconnected from their original meanings.
Furthermore, the study underscores the importance of preserving and interpreting traditional art forms in contemporary contexts. As many traditional symbols and motifs risk fading from collective memory, there is an urgent need for research that can revitalize these cultural expressions, ensuring that their meanings are not lost to future generations. By uncovering the narrative themes embedded in the eagle wing motif, this research aims to contribute to the ongoing preservation and revitalization of Sangsari cultural heritage. The findings of this study will not only enhance the understanding of the eagle wing motif but also stimulate further academic inquiry into the rich tapestry of meanings that underlie the art of Sangsari needlework and other forms of indigenous craftsmanship.
In conclusion, the eagle wing motif in Sangsari needlework is more than just a decorative element; it is a profound symbol of life, continuity, and immortality. Through its analysis, this research reveals the intricate web of symbolic meanings that characterize Sangsari artistic practices, contributing to a broader understanding of the cultural, spiritual, and social dimensions of indigenous art forms. By re-engaging with these ancient symbols and their narratives, contemporary scholars can play a pivotal role in preserving the cultural legacy of the Sangsari people and ensuring that these powerful motifs continue to resonate in the modern world.

کلیدواژه‌ها English

needlework
traditional embroidery
Sangsar tribe
eagle wing motif